978-1-85702-500-2 / 1857025008

Paul Heathcote's Rhubarb and Black Pudding

by Fort, Matthew

Publisher:4th Estate, Limited



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About the book:

Rhubarb & Black Pudding is a rare find among books about food. It not only provides fabulous recipes, but it is also a good read. Written by award-winning journalist Matthew Fort, the book serves three functions: it paints a portrait of Michelin and Egon Ronay star chef Paul Heathcote, it records his recipes, and it describes the atmosphere in his restaurants, Manchester's Heathcote's and Preston's Heathcote's Brasserie.

Stunning colour photographs have been used to illustrate the food and emotive black-and-white pictures are used with reportage on kitchen activities, the landscapes of the Ribble Valley and the changing seasons in Lancashire. The book is divided into seasons and clear, concise and very detailed instructions are included in the recipes.

Heathcote's food has been described as similar to the French cuisine du terroir, but it remains distinctively British or even Lancastrian. His approach, in his own words, is to use seasonal ingredients and to avoid fashion trends. He is quoted as saying: "One of the bees in my bonnet is that too many chefs want to cook what's in fashion. They want to put plenty of olive oil and roasted peppers on to their menus, and every restaurant you go to has a similar kind of feel to it. Why can't we use things the same way chefs do in France and Italy, in the villages and bistros. They cook what their suppliers have in season."

The result is pig's trotter filled with ham hock and sage, jellied eel terrine, roast breast of Goosnargh chicken, roast duckling with mead, broth of quail with wild mushrooms, baby leeks and artichokes, and black pudding. Desserts are just as good: apple tarts with gingerbread ice- cream and cider butter, hot banana soufflé, or deep fried Stilton fritters. --Dale Kneen

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